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Its not often
one can do an extreme day hike by going down to a river
and back up the same day. The Bright Angel Trail at the
South Rim of the Grand Canyon affords that opportunity
and has incredible views. A word of caution: Do this in
the wintertime during good weather and be in shape. This
hike is famous for people getting in trouble during hot
weather along with their tendency to under estimate the
uphill climb.
You may want to make
an advanced reservation in one of the hotels on the rim.
Even a restaurant reservation may be warranted for the
evening after your return. This is a relatively easy hike
if you follow the Day Hikers principles: Go early, go light,
go fast. There is water year round at Indian Gardens, about
half way, minimizing the need to carry much except in the
summer months.
This writer (the Day
Hiker) started at 7am on 12/27/98 at dawns first
light. It was a little above freezing, warming later to
about 50-º F later perfect weather. The descent
in the summer is usually into a scorching desert. So while
the winter hike was a little on the chilly side, some light
clothing layers made it comfortable. An extra bonus in
the middle of winter is the opportunity to walk the first
half-mile of frozen green mule dung. Trekking poles are
useful to prevent slipping on the way down, and a great
advantage going up to take weight off the knees and lower
back.
The trail is well maintained,
with thoughtful improvements along the way. Highlights
include Three-Mile Resthouse, Indian Garden, Bright Angel
Campground, and the Colorado River. Elevation change from
rim to river is 4420 ft, along a 7.7-mile trail.
The Day Hikers
pace was 3 hours down to the river (River House) and 3 ½ hours
back up to the rim, with an additional ½ hour sitting by
the river.
Rim - 6860'
- Indian Gardens -
3800', 3060' below rim
- Colorado River -
2400', 4460' below rim
The upper section of
trail starts out with wide trails, long switchbacks and
has panoramic views into the canyon. Once you pass beyond
the first resthouse the switchbacks come a little closer
as the canyon narrows. The section of trail between the
first and second resthouses is very scenic. The Three-Mile
resthouse has water in the summer time only. There is a
very nice spot for viewing just beyond the resthouse. Beyond
Three-Mile Resthouse the trail there are a series of steeper
switchbacks. Once you are beyond this the trail levels
out for the remaining 3/4-mile or so to Indian Gardens.
Indian Gardens makes for shorter day hike and a great place
for a picnic. From here you can also take the trail out
to Plateau Point, 1.5 miles each way, for an awesome view
of the Inner Gorge and the Colorado River. To head to Plateau
Point take the fork in the trail to the left just beyond
Indian Gardens. But for the trip to the river and back
take the fork to the right, which will keep you on the
Bright Angel Trail and take you to bottom.
After another 1/2 mile
or so the trail really starts to head down again. The slope
is really gradual until you get to the Devil's Corkscrew,
a spectacular drop into the Vishnu Schist. This is the
area in the summer time as the temperature can easily reach
130 degrees. Beyond the Devil's Corkscrew the trail levels
out again for maybe another 1/2 mile that will bring you
to the Colorado River and the River House. This technically
marks the end of the Bright Angel Trail though some people
consider the River Trail that takes you to Bright Angel
Campground, 2 miles beyond, to still actually be part of
it.
After such a large drop
in elevation, it is almost pleasant to begin the upward
ascent from the river back to the rim. As in most long
rigorous hikes, the key is to develop a steady pace. If
you are stopping often then you are going too fast. You
may see many folks who have backpacked into the canyon,
often staying at the Phantom Ranch for the night, then
hiking out the next morning. They will envy you as you
pass by them, lightly loaded and propelled by your trekking
poles. Rub it in by telling them you slept in a soft bed
last night at the lodge, and have dinner reservations at
the best restaurant on the rim in a few hours
such
is the life of a day hiker!
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