(Kauai) - Na Pali Coast
hike is different, extreme as a day hike, and one of the best of the Hawaiian Islands. The
island of Kauai is known for its heavy rainfall, panoramic views,
tropical forest and rugged coastline. This 11-mile Kalalau
Trail (one-way) follows the Na Pali Coast with its incredible views
of five lush valleys, waterfalls, and ancient Hawaiian ruins.
Most day hikers go from the
trailhead at Ke'e Beach to Hanakapiai Beach (2 miles) and then
another 2 miles inland to Hanakpiai Falls, and return. Or,
backpackers stay on the coast for 11 miles and camp at the Kalalau
beach. Not many have done the complete round trip in one
day. This writer, the Day Hiker, went about half way July
1999 due to a late start, but would like to do the whole 22 miles
in the future.
What makes this hike different,
in addition to the natural beauty, is the trail which can be wet
and tricky. While you won't have a problem with high altitude,
tree roots, slippery rocks, and the repetitive up 400' down
400', make for a challenging hike.
It is possible to take a Zodiac (rubber boat) from a commercial
operator one way to/from Hanelai to Kalalau Beach. Check with local providers. So with
the right planning one could do the "day hike" one way
and still be back that night in comfortable bed, avoiding mosquitoes,
and using indoor plumbing.
And, like other hikes described on this site, maybe this strenuous activity will result in increased brain neurons which will cause less cognitive decline like in Alzheimer's disease.
The following article by David
Wonderly, a DayHiker contributer, describes a one day round
THE NA PALI
COAST TRAIL ON A TIME BUDGET
We were lucky. Three of us, John, Eric
and I, went to Kauai in February 93 on a work trip. All expenses
paid. It sounded great and it was great. Three weeks on the garden
island, but only a few days without working to see and experience
all that Kauai has to offer. We didn’t know much about Kauai
when we arrived, and I had never even heard about the Na Pali coast,
so on our first day off we went kayaking in the morning, and mountain
biking in the afternoon. Some time during our stay we heard about
the ancient Na Pali trail, and decided that we had to see it for
We started asking around and the more
people that we talked to the more we began to wonder if it was even
possible to hike all the way to the beach and back the same day.
Most people said we were crazy, and some went so far to say that
if we even tried we would probably die. This only made us more determined
to at least would give it our best shot.
At last our day off work came, a Sunday
morning. We had worked 75 hours in the previous six days so we didn’t
really get an early start. However by 8:00 am we were finishing breakfast
in a nice caf� near the trailhead. The waitress gave us yet another
warning about the dangers of Na Pali, and the dangerous surf at Kalalau
We weren’t totally ignorant of the
stresses of a big hike on a hot tropical day, so we took about a
gallon and a half of water each planning to stash some of it along
the rail for the return trip. We also figured we would have to go
rather fast if we wanted to get out alive.
We hit the trail about 8:30 walking fast
with a strong sense of urgency and a certain amount of trepidation.
The trail starts up immediately and after climbing three or four
hundred feet it goes back down. This pattern was repeated over and
over. Our fast walk soon turned into jogging on the downhills and
the mile markers started going past. A few miles in we passed some
guys who were pig hunting. They didn’t seem too friendly so
we pushed on. Sometimes the trail would be in dense jungle other
times it would open up with heartstopping views over cliff edges
and down to the waves hundreds of feet below. Usually at those spots
the trail would be narrow resembling a goat trail more than a hiking
trail. We were blessed with a wonderful day, clear skies with a blustery
wind off the amazingly blue ocean. However the sun was intense and
we were glad to have lots of water. After about one and half-hours,
we were near the six-mile mark where we stashed part of our water
for the return trip. We were making good time and by now knew that
we would be able to make it in reasonable time. Ridge after ridge,
through drainage after drainage, we were soon on the last descent
to Kalalau Beach.
What a beautiful place! A lone beach bordered
by impassable cliffs that look more like a vertical jungle than any
cliff I had ever seen. Water falls and runnels draining the upper
reaches of the island cascaded down everywhere. Being winter on the
north shore, the waves were huge. The waitress at the caf� was right,
the ocean here dominates everything. We were afraid to even get in
the water because the rip tide was running west faster than we could
run. If you were to get in the water past thigh level you would likely
get knocked off your feet and swept west past the end of the beach.
If that happened you would have to swim all the way around the island
before you could find a place to get out of the water. Resting in
the shade eating some lunch and napping to the sound of endless waves
crashing over the reefs, we felt very privileged to be there.
We spent an hour and a half hanging out
on the beach before starting the long hike back. Walking along, I
was thinking about the ancient peoples that created and used this
trail. It makes one wonder who had it better, the people who walked
this trail out of necessity, or us who were hurrying back so that
we could return to work the next day? By 4:30 we were back at the
car, it had been a very rewarding day. The lesson learned is to not
let others fears and limitations stop you from searching to find
Dave Wonderly 1999
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